Hello all,
After a week long hiatus from blogging its time to resume the exciting story of my Budapest experiences.
Milan is a large city. It has wonderful people. In Hotel Greco you can enjoy prepackaged Melba toast, cookies, chocolate filled croissants, honey, nutella, apricot jam, butter and all the espresso shots you can consume included free in the price of the room. As awful as it sounds, I loved getting up for breakfast. They would open the doors and let the morning air in. Mixed with the smell of espresso and episodes of The Fresh Prince of Belair dubbed over in Italian is a surpisingly stimulating experience. You also get to hang out with the coolest ugly dog on the planet, Diablo, a smug pug. I would recommend the Greco to anyone who is budget conscious. For a one-star joint we got four individual beds (a real plus, though the cot's mattress I think was just a big pillow case filled with beach towels) our own bathroom, and a door out to a courtyard.
I read The Miracle at St. Anna in the courtyard. It is set in the hills of Tuscany, which is close enough (though its still about 4 hours away by train) to make reading the book much more real. I loved the book because of how it tied in various elements of history to various characters from multiple cultures in its brash-poetic style. His explanation of why old Italians in small villages don't like to talk about the war makes the war seem horrible and brutal and fragile all at the same time. I could only put it down in between designer stores and gelato.
I'm too big to fit into European clothes. I bought a sweater in Munich two weekends ago. XXXL. No joke. Armani doesn't make clothes this big and if he did the shoulders would still be tight, the waist far to big and the arms about 3 inches too short. I stuck to purchasing a belt and a pair of sunglasses, a cheap Milan zip-up (XXL, very tight, very euro) and scarf for the soccer game. I wanted to buy some hand-crafted Italian leather shoes, but I'd need a pair of scissors instead of a shoe horn to fit into them.
This carnival thing Europe does is a lot of fun. I bought some confetti from a bag because everyone but the Canadians were covered in this confetti stuff. I opened it and threw it on the guys but they didn't think it was so amusing and spent the rest of the day shaking it off themselves. In retrospect, it was maybe a silly purchase (2 euro) because two seconds away were these big vents you find in the ground that pump air out from some sort of underground ventilation system and kids were throwing handful after handful of the recycled paper into the air covering everyone.
The Duomo is the third largest church in the world and it was stunning. Actually breathtaking. The scoops of bacio, pistachio, nougat and biscuit gelato in my mouth dribbled down my chin. Fortunately these nice Senegalese guys came up to Trevor and I to offer us free bracelets. I finished my gelato, wiped my face and after initially saying "No thanks," they said "Oh come on, its free. It's our gift to you." After another "No thanks, its nice of you to offer," he smiled wide and asked "Where you from? You have a girlfriend? Babies?" and before I knew it I had two bracelets around my wrist to which he said "Can you spare some money for Africa?" At this point I know I don't want the bracelet, I don't want to donate to some undisclosed charity in Africa, but its already on my wrist, the guy was really friendly and whats a few euro cents, right? "Oh come on, man! Five euro." I want to tell him that beggars can't be choosers, that you can't offer "free" things, then ask for a donation to something, then demand five euros for some shitty bracelet. "That's all I've got," I lied and handed him one euro twenty. I still had a few euros in my pocket and he knew it, he could probably hear it in my pocket, but fuck it, I wanted more gelato. From the four of us, two guys made about five euros collectively in about 4 minutes. It pays to be insistent.
If the outside of the Duomo is breathtaking, inside you can't breathe. It's damp and dingy and dark and cold and somehow a room the size of the inside of the third biggest church in the world manages to choke you, engulf you, squeeze something inside you so that when you leave the huge metal doors you feel instantly like the weight of 700 years of prayer and marble are lifted away forever and you never want to go inside again. Instead, pay five euro to walk up to the roof to get a view of Milan and the incredible detail of the spires.
I really liked Milan and am eager to go back. A combination of the ritz and glamour of the fashion streets (with the Lamborghinis, Ferraris, Bentleys and Aston Martins) with wood-fired pizza, gelato, carnival, weather warm enough to wear a t-shirt, discount stores and open markets made it a really enjoyable trip.